From HK, we took an overnight 12.5-hour high-speed train to Beijing. It was so smooth and quiet. China has more than 31,000 miles of rail network, and standard bullet trains run between 200 and 400 km/hour. Railroad is the best way to travel around China. China uses a “true-ID” system, so foreigners must have a passport wherever they go. The train bathroom is wheelchair accessible and very clean (a big improvement over earlier times). Hot water is always available (don’t expect ice water; it’s not Chinese style). At night, no loud noise, no announcements, and at the destination, an attendant will knock on your door 20 minutes ahead of time to get you ready. After traveling all over England by train, I have to say China’s rail service is much better and easier to use. Download the English-supported Railway 12306 app to check the routes and purchase tickets.
My good friend Shiqiu was waiting for us at the train station. Beijing was in the high 30s degrees Celsius, so Shiqiu decided to take us west to the ancient city of Datong in Shanxi Province, where the weather was much cooler. Datong was the capital of the Northern Wei dynasty from AD 398-494. The famous Yungang Grottoes were constructed during this time. Other attractions, including the Hanging Temple and Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, were also nearby. We stayed in a small apartment inside the Ancient City. It was great to walk around at night and taste all the local favorites. We also enjoyed a nice, leisurely 90-minute massage, which cost only 1/3 of what you would pay in Beijing.
In Datong, we found a large Muslim population and ate at many restaurants that served kosher lamb and beef. We also found that locals make Vinegar the old-fashioned way. They steamed, then fermented mixed grains, boiled them, distilled them, and finally stored them in pots for 5 to 10 years. The final Vinegar came out black, looking like molasses. Depending on the fruits or herbs used, it tasted smooth with a pleasant fruity flavor. We spent a long time in the store tasting all varieties of Vinegar. My favorites are hawthorn and apple. Black Vinegar is considered to provide health benefits, aiding metabolism and weight management, and is an antioxidant. Given such a healthy product with great taste, it is a shame these vinegars aren’t sold online outside this region.
We hired a car to visit the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, the world’s oldest and tallest all-wood tower, built in 1056 AD. It is 221 feet tall, octagonal, with nine levels, and uses no metal nails or rivets. It has survived major historical earthquakes—an amazing feat of engineering.
The Yungang Grottoes, with 252 caves and 50,000 statues, represent the outstanding achievement of Buddhist cave art in the 5th and 6th centuries. These Grottoes interpret Buddhist art with a distinctive Chinese character. Most statues have retained their historic appearance, with little damage from vandalism or natural disasters. It is considered one of the four top grottos in China.
One of the most impressive sites we visited was the Hanging Temple. Built more than 1500 years ago, it was constructed 250 ft above the ground into a cliff. This temple integrated all three major religions and philosophies: Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The temple allocated 100 tickets daily to people who wanted to climb the narrow corridor and take a close look at the temple. We stayed down with the rest of the crowd and just enjoyed the magnificent view.
This is our first visit to Datong and Ray, and I really enjoyed this quiet and charming town. We hope we will be back again in the future.
This was a wonderful trip. This season is also a wonderful season.
Thanks for sharing these amazing pictures and your history info on these interesting places. I wish we had high speed trains here! What a nice way to travel long distances.