We arrived in Vienna by train from Venice, greeted by a thick blanket of five inches of winter snow. Our first day was spent exploring the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History), one of the world’s most prestigious art museums. It houses the Imperial Collections, featuring art from ancient Egypt, classical antiquity, and the Renaissance. Masterpieces by renowned artists like Titian, Rembrandt, and Vermeer, along with the world’s most extensive Bruegel collection, are on display. We were also fortunate enough to attend a special exhibition showcasing Chinese antiques. Having visited numerous art galleries worldwide, I can confidently say that this museum stands out as one of the largest and most magnificent I’ve ever encountered. The museum center boasts a spectacular marble-adorned Cupola Hall, which would have been an ideal spot for a cup of tea, but the long queue made it impossible.
Vienna, the world’s premier classical music capital, has hosted legendary composers like Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Schubert, Mahler, and, of course, Johann Strauss II. We couldn’t resist attending a few concerts during our visit. Our first concert was a dinner-and-show featuring Strauss. It included a traditional Viennese three-course dinner and a lively music performance by a 15-person orchestra, a supreme soprano, and two dancers. On the second evening, we attended a quartet concert at St. Peter’s Church. The music was composed by Mozart, Vivaldi, and Haydn. Seated in the front row, we were captivated by the exceptional acoustics of the church, which allowed us to fully appreciate the harmony between the four instruments. Even as casual classical music enthusiasts, we thoroughly enjoyed the melody. We also visited the traditional Viennese tea house Sluka (established in 1891) to indulge in some of its famous desserts.
Enjoy a clip of the soprano
From Vienna, a day trip to Hallstatt Mountain and an alpine lake sounded like a dream when I booked it in August. However, now in February, with deep snow covering the ground and a 3.5-hour drive each way in a cramped van, the idea doesn’t seem as appealing. Hallstatt, a picturesque village on the western shore of Lake Hallstatt, is renowned for its salt production. Its charming 16th-century Alpine houses and narrow alleyways are lined with cafes and shops. The breathtaking scenery is a highlight, but Hallstatt is a one-street town, and many shops and restaurants are closed for the winter season. The majority of tourists who arrive by large buses are Asian, and it’s important to note that cash is the only accepted form of payment. This trip would undoubtedly be more enjoyable in the spring or summer.
I first saw the movie Sisi (played by Romy Schneider) in my early teens in Taiwan. I was instantly captivated by this spirited and stunning Austrian Empress. Little did I know that despite her beauty, wealth, and a devoted husband who adored her, she led a deeply unhappy life. The Vienna court’s traditional restrictions and her husband’s busy governance left her feeling suffocated. After her son’s tragic suicide, she withdrew into seclusion, traveling extensively and never attending court functions until her untimely assassination at the age of 60. We visited her museum and marveled at the meticulously maintained luscious hair she spent hours grooming daily, as well as her rigorous exercise regimen to maintain her slender waist. She was undoubtedly the first royal star in Europe, but the sacrifices she made were immense.
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart is the most famous musical genius of all time. He moved to Vienna in 1781 at age 25, where he worked as a freelance composer, and died at 36. During his short life, he composed over 600 works, and many, like The Marriage of Figaro, were written at the house we visited. My friend Cecilia’s son Leon accompanied us to this museum. Leon currently plays for the Vienna Radio Symphony Orchestra, and he sat at a replica of Mozart’s piano and played for us. How lucky we were to have this special performance.
Leon played on piano for us